Oscar de la Renta release two bridal collections a year in Spring then Fall and Fall 23 has had, according to Mayfair store manager Suzy Moon ‘one of the best receptions on record. This collection is very Oscar – very feminine and very playful.’
Described as a ‘floral romance’, the latest ten-piece collection, which lands in store in April/May 2023 takes its inspiration from nature with botanical embroidery featuring across many of the gowns. ODLR fans will be thrilled to see a return of the label’s signature detailing – corseted bodices, full skirts, soft trains, pretty appliques and some fashionable standout details. An early trunk show viewing has already resulted in ‘lots of enquires’ says Suzy with a short cocktail dress covered with butterfly appliques becoming ‘one of the most popular styles we’ve had.’
Big weddings are still firmly on the agenda for ODLR brides who are typically ‘getting married in places like the Alps, in castles and with guest lists of 2000 people.’ Many of them are looking for a statement dress but one that is wearable, not heavy.
‘The more dramatic shapes are the ones clients are veering towards,’ adds Suzy. ‘They come to us for a slightly fashion forward aspect. They’re not looking for lots of sequins and sparkle, it’s much more understated than that. It’s fresh, young, elegant and feminine embroidery. A light underskirt will give you drama and volume without the weight so you can wear it all day.’
ODLR Mayfair now hold a small selection of bridal dresses in store ready to buy, particularly the cocktail style dresses. ‘Should a client decide last minute they want one, we are able to offer that without the wait to have it made.’
Customisation is also popular. ‘Perhaps it’s wanting a longer train or additional lace coverage that looks intrinsic to the dress. One client wanted some messages from her fiancé hand embroidered onto one of the under layers, another some religious text. We can also incorporate existing family jewellery into the dress if you would like.’
Suzy’s best advice is to approach the first appointment with an open mind as too much advance research can be confusing. ‘Some people arrive with a very firm idea of what they’d like and then end up choosing something completely different. It’s also absolutely fine not to know. Better to come with more of an idea of the kind of wedding you’d like and the style of venue rather than a definitive view on the dress.’
Look out for forthcoming trunk show dates which will enable you to see and try on styles before the full collection of samples arrives in store approximately five months later.
Jenny Packham: JPB926 CARRIS (cape) Ivory
The White Edit 2023 Woman in White collection is Jenny at her bridal best. Think fluid skirts and billowing multi-layered gowns, a playful ruffled neckline and floor-sweeping sleeves. The super-chic Just Jenny dress with its square cut illusion neckline, neat shoulders and midi length hemline is made for a Mayfair party. Jenny’s sparkle returns, just lightly touching some gowns, and with all over shine for others.
Both feminine and daring, a Vivienne Westwood bridal dress is designed to last and to move. Modern silhouettes combine with historical cuts while all the hallmarks of Vivienne’s bridal collections remain – Chantilly lace, 3D detailing, statement sleeves and multi-layered tulle. Choose from made to order gowns or the full couture experience.
Two forever bridal favourites make a strong showing in Rocha’s Spring/Summer 23 collection. Bold florals including echinacea, chamomile and daisies bloom on embroidery and embellishment, while pearls – a Simone Rocha signature – can be found laced through chains and high shine metallics. Perfect for brides who like to play with proportions and who love volume.
GINA
For the bride who likes to bring the party this is a bridal collection from GINA that is high shine, high glamour and that will easily take you from your wedding day to a dance floor anywhere in the world.
March 2023 sees the launch of new bridal lingerie and nightwear to keep everyone comfortable and calm on the wedding morning. Easy pieces from HANRO – like the embroidered shortie pyjamas in bright white woven cotton jersey – are a stylish throw on for hair and make-up time while the Moments soft lace bra with its deep V neckline comes in pretty shades of pale pink and cool blue.
The White Edit capsule collection of ten pieces from Maison Rabih Kayrouz offers an uncomplicated alternative to more traditional bridal silhouettes. Marry in the belted charmeuse dress, then pack it for the honeymoon. Say your vows in the white satin blazer then take it out to lunch with the girls.
Made even more famous by clever collaborations with Netflix blockbuster series Bridgerton and Emily In Paris, you will want to pick up every pair in this Italian shoemaker’s boutique. Malone Souliers first ever capsule bridal collection has just launched featuring some bestselling contours as well as new standout details. The white lace heeled booties are destined for bridal icon status.
Malone Souliers
There’s something eternally chic about a bright white wedding shoe with the flash of that famous red sole from Christian Louboutin. From sky high 12cm lace pumps to after party sneakers, glittered calf leather silver sandals and the clutches to match, this collection is perfect for your white catwalk.
Brilliantly solving the problem of your heels sinking into an English country lawn this wedding season, is a new Bridal Atelier collection of espadrilles. Handcrafted in Spain, Penelope Chilvers espadrilles are available in satin, striped or embroidered looks that come in two wedge heights. Guests will definitely appreciate the tip off.
‘It’s a piece of art and not just a suit,’ says Mariano Rubinacci who believes ‘being elegant is being at the right place with the right suit.’ Today he runs the business with his son Luca, bringing centuries of traditional Neapolitan bespoke tailoring (where a client’s measurements are chalked directly by hand onto the fabric) and English traditions to the very heart of Mayfair.
Looking after three generations of some of the same families, Richard Gelding offers the broadest range of Italian Canali suits anywhere in the UK. Made to measure and bespoke services are available and it’s a little-known fact that they also offer alternations to bridal wear.
Richard Gelding Menswear
